Shoulders and knees covered is the whole rule in Rome's churches, and it applies to men, women and children alike. Where it is enforced hardest, what happens if you get it wrong at a timed entry slot, and the one outfit that gets you into everything.
Rome's tap water is among the best of any major European city, and the cast iron nasoni running on street corners are fed by the same supply. Which fountains are for drinking, which are decorative, and the small trick Romans use that most visitors never notice.
Most of what makes Rome extraordinary is outdoors and unticketed, which means three days here can cost nothing in admission. Churches that function as free museums, the views that need no booking, where the drinking water is, and what the free museum Sundays really cost you.
Rome needs more time than its size suggests, because the Colosseum and the Vatican are half day commitments rather than stops on a walking route. What each day actually buys you, the timed ticket problem that catches first visitors, and how the season changes the answer.
